The Sharkmasters' Log
- Trip Reports -
Guadalupe
White Sharks on the Sea Escape
Aug
8-12, 2010
Aug
8 Day One
It
is a small group on this the first trip of the white shark season at Guadalupe
Island for the Sea Escape. There are only 7 divers; two deaf guys from Japan, A
mountain climbing enthusiasts and her brother, two French divers, and myself.
Getting thru the border this time was a bit of a hassle since we had to stop
for our tourists visas. After boarding the Sea Escape we waited for the customs
agent to check our passports and clear the Sea Escape for departure. Yves and
Jacque had to buy a few items before we left. Finally we cast off and headed
for the island. It was a sunny day with calm seas. After lunch everyone took a
siesta and set up their gear in anticipation of tomorrow’s diving with the
Great White Sharks of Guadalupe.
Aug
9 Day
Two
We
had a wonderful transit down to the island nice and smooth with s gentle swell.
It was just enough to rock everyone to sleep. The Sea Escape anchored around
0900. The cages were prepped and launched as was the panga. We al opted for a
shoreline tour to start things off with. The boat would call us on the radio if
a shark showed up. The panga slowly motored along close to shore so we could
get photos of the Guadalupe Fur Seals, California Sea Lions and the Elephant
Seals. The seal pups were playing in the shallows or sunning themselves on the
rocks while the Elephant Seal groups were lazing on the black sand beach.
Shortly after returning to the Sea Escape the first white shark showed up and
everyone geared up and jumped into the cages. By the end of the day we had seen
six different sharks including my old buddy “Scar”. Scar is easily identified
by the large gash in his dorsal fin. He is often the first to visit each
sharking boat as it arrives to the island. Sort of the unofficial Guadalupe
Island greeter! After everyone had showered we had a delicious dinner. Everyone
slept like a log tonight, dreaming of tomorrow’s action.
Aug
10 Day
Three
The
cages were in the water and ready by 0700. A dead fur seal pup drifted by the
stern and was quickly gobbled up by a prowling white shark. It was a dramatic
scene, but that’s what they do. The two deaf Japanese divers were the first in the water. I followed
shortly after. The water was a couple of degrees colder than yesterday. There was a cheeky Sea Lion hanging
around the boat and hiding under the stern ambushing some of the Scad Mackeral
as they darted under the shade of the boat. Every so often a white shark would
cruise by and the Sea Lion would leisurely sneak right behind the shark playing
tag with the predator. The action slowed about mid-morning so most of the other
divers opted for another shoreline tour in the panga. Shortly after they left a
couple of sharks showed up so I got dressed and hopped in one of he cages. There
were now two Sea Lions amongst the two sharks, It was an interesting scene. A
little later the panga returned and two other divers joined me in the water.
After a while I=someone started rapping on the cage so I surfaced and one of
the crew told me I had to get out. He Mexican navy had send a patrol vessel up
the island to inspect the shark boats to make sure we weren’t carrying any
drugs or guns. Once the navy personnel departed we were cleared to resume cage
diving. The shark action slowed down once we got back into the cages, but then
picked up later in the afternoon. We had three sharks at a time at one point.
We stayed in the cages until around 6:30. Dinner tonight was grilled steaks
with all the fixins served al fresco up on the sundeck. Later those who hadn’t already headed
for their berths watched a movie until just before 10:00. I was the last to
drift off to my cabin. Tomorrow is our last sharking day so we better “hit it
hard.”
Aug
11 Day
Four
The
first white shark of the day showed up shortly after the cages were set in the
water. After a quick breakfast divers began to gear up and get into the cages.
The Sea Escape was the only boat at the island today so we had all the white
sharks to ourselves for the whole day. At one time during mid-morning we had as
many as five sharks circling the cages! Later a couple of bold Sea Lions joined the party darting in amongst the
sharks while keeping a wary eye on their traditional adversaries. The Sea Lions
would swim closely behind or alongside of the sharks seeming to tempt fate.
None got eaten today but earlier a dead fur seal had drifted under the Sea
Escape and astern of the cages. As soon as the carcass had drifted six feet
away from the cages a big white shark lunged out of the water and the fur seal
disappeared in a swirl of water! It was a dramatic scene, but that’s what the
sharks are supposed to do. As the day progressed the action remained steady
with at least three white sharks around the boat most of the time. Finally
around 3:00 we had to end the diving, pull the cages and stow our gear to the
long ride back to Ensenada. I’ve been doing these trips for 10 years now and
this never gets old. Its still an amazing experience.
Oct 12-16,
2009 Sea Escape
Oct 12 Day
One
We were
picked up at the Comfort Inn in Old Town for the drive down to Ensenada where
we were to board the Sea Escape. The drive thru the backside of Tijuana gave
those who had never been on that route a new view of this bustling border city.
We merged onto the scenic coastal road just north of Rosarita Beach. Once in
Ensenada we loaded onto the Sea Escape and were quickly cleared by the ship’s
agent for our transit down to Guadalupe Island. The sea was like a lake with
barely a ripple on its surface. A pod of dolphins passed by as we exited
Ensenada Bay and shortly afterwards the captain sighted a Blue Whale.
Unfortunately the animal was a little shy so all we saw were its “foot pints”
the smooth water left by the whales flukes as it swan just under the surface.
Some opted for a siesta while others prepped their camera gear and all of us
talked about our dive experiences and about the up coming adventure at
Guadalupe.
Oct 13 Day
Two
I awoke early and made a dash for the coffee to get my morning
jolt! Surprisingly one other passenger was up a 5 AM. The overnight transit was
one of the smoothest ever. The boat barely rocked. The first shark showed up
within an hour. We had five different sharks show up today. It was good to see
my old friend Scar show up and do some rushes at the hang baits. There was also
a large female that I couldn’t identify. The weather was clear and sunny and
the water surface flat and calm. We had perfect conditions today. It was great
sharking today and as a topper we had lobster for dinner. What a way to end the
day. Mauricio Hoyas did a presentation on his white shark acoustic research.
Everyone enjoyed that and there were spirited discussions afterward until
people finally drifted off to their cabins for the night.
Oct 14 Day Three
Today
we are trying something different. The ballast tanks were removed from one of
the cages so that the divers could be lowed down to about 50 ft to get a
different perspective on the sharks. Several sharks swan around the deep cage
while a couple of cheeky sea lions chased the sharks around nipping at their
fins. The water visibility today was all over the place it was up to 90 ft in
the morning but by the afternoon the “mung” layer of dirty water had surrounded
us dropping the visibility to about 15 ft. This happens once in a while when
the tide and current slack off. Everyone got at least one rotation into the
deep cage while others were content to just relax on the sundeck or take a
siesta in one of the lounge chairs. We ere visited by Lucy, a couple of larger
females and at the end of the day, Chicka the largest white shark we have seen
so far.
Oct 15 Day
Four
The wind and chop picked up overnight to the point where diving in
the cages was way bumpy. It was pretty much impossible to take any photographs
or video while in the cages simply because they were bouncing around too much.
We just enjoyed the day before packing up all the gear and making our way back
to Ensenada.
Oct 16 Day
Five
It was a rough ride back to port overnight. I finally got up from
my forward berth cabin and laid out a sofa cushion on the salon floor and slept
on that. At least I wasn’t going airborne sleeping further aft! The seas
moderated around 0800 and it was smooth sailing once past Punta Banda at the
entrance to Ensenada Bay. Our van driver decided to go through the Otay Mesa border
crossing since it is usually a shorter wait to get across there. Once back at
the drop off hotel we all collected our baggage, said our good-byes and shook
hands wishing safe trips home to all. This was the last white shark trip of the
season for the Sea Escape.
Sept 28-Oct 2, 2009 aboard the Islander
Sept 28 Day One
The passengers all boarded the Islander by 0900 and by 0930 we eased our way out of Fishermen’s Landing into San Diego Bay and on southward to our destination of Guadalupe Island. It was a good mix of people onboard. There were several Canadians, a father and daughter pair, and other divers from around the US. The transit was a smooth one with everyone enjoying the ride as we talked about our upcoming adventure.
Sept 29 Day Two
The island loomed on the horizon around 0615. The sky was mostly overcast but the anchorage were we would be doing the sharking was sunny and cloud-free. We got anchored up by 0815 and launched the cages while Luke; our dive operations leader gave the briefing. The first group was in the water by 0900 and the first white shark appeared below the cages at 0923. Not a bad start. The action gradually built as the day progressed. There were as many as three sharks at one time and by the end of the day we had sighted five different animals. It was good to see my old friend Bruce again. He is a big male Great White Shark whom we have seen every year since we started doing these trips back in 2001. Bruce was sporting a new acoustic tag at the base of his dorsal fin as well as the remnants of 5 other tags he has been darted with over the years. I’m sure he is the most studied of any of the sharks at Guadalupe. We finished up the diving by 5:00 and everyone showered up and gathered up on the sun deck for excited conversation about the day’s sightings. There was still on really big female white shark circling the boat as we all leaned over the rail to see her slowly swimming alongside of the Islander. Dinner was announced and the wine flowed, as delicious lamb chops were served accompanied by Lebanese rice and steamed veggies along with home made bread. We were eating well on this trip. Captain John gave us the weather update and Luke summarized the day’s action as we all talked about the next day’s diving. By 9:00 the salon was cleared and everyone was in his or her berth.
Sept 30 Day Three
The first cage rotation began at 0800 with the first white shark showing up under the cages within 10 minutes. The action increased, as did the wind also. The divers were getting bounced around inside the cages pretty good as the surface chop developed. We could see the white caps come marching into the bay and make their advance towards the Islander. We thought we might have to pull the cages and head for shelter when about 1100 the wind finally began to subside and the surface started to flatten out. The sharks began to gather until we had as many as three animals around the cages at a time. It was steady action throughout the rest of the day and then during the last go round when my old buddy Scar made his presents known by swooping in to gobble down one of our hang baits. In his typical fashion he made several more rushes at the baits accompanied by big splashes of water to the delight of those up on deck. The divers in the cages were being treated to a great show by Scar who proved that he is still a “player. It was a terrific end to the dive day. After everyone cleaned up and the cages were back on the deck Rick, our chef, served up a delicious pork loin dinner. We watched the classic movie “Blue Water White Death” afterwards while a few of us retired to the aft deck for cigars and wine. It doesn’t get much better than this!
Oct 1 Day Four
This is our last dive day so we’d better make the most of it. The sharks would not disappoint us. The action started early and was steady throughout the dive day. We had as many as three at a time and there were at least five different sharks today. Our favorites Bruce and Scar made their usual appearances along with Chicka, a large female, and another female that I was unable to identify. The weather was great the wind had died down overnight so the surface was pretty much flat calm and visibility as at least 100 ft for parts of the day. We finally had to call it and haul in the cages around 2:30. The crew secured all the gear for our transit back to San Diego. As we left the island we did a short shoreline tour to see the pinnepeds. The Islander was hailed by an offshore Mexican Navy vessel and ordered to halt and prepare to be boarded. Several seamen and an officer came onboard to inspect the boat’s documents and search compartments for any contraband. After a couple of hours we were cleared and restarted our transit back home. I suspect the rest of the sharking boats were going to be boarded also as the Mexican navy increases their inspections this season. One thing about the Islander that all the passengers raved about was how luxurious the meals and snacks were. Rick, the Islander’s chef, formerly owned a chain of popular restaurants. He really knows how to put out delicious and sumptuous meals. No one onboard was lacking during the trip. I have to admit the meals onboard this boat were the best I’ve ever had in all the years I’ve been on dive live boards! We arrived at the Fishermen’s Landing slip around 5 pm. Everyone said their good-byes and off we went to our homes with great memories of a superb trip.
Maldives
Aug 17-27, 2010
Aug 17-18 Day One and Two In Transit
I drove up to LAX from San Diego and parked at nearby
parking structure that I had booked online. Their shuttle quickly drove me to
the international departures terminal where I lined up to check my bag for the
long flight on Emirates Airlines to Dubai. I had flown Emirates the year before
and was pleased with the service of their multi-national crew. They spoke at
least a half dozen different languages onboard. It is a 15 hr. leg into Dubai
going over the great arctic route thru Canada’s far northern territory of
Nunavut across Greenland and down thru Russia and into Dubai. The airport in
Dubai will become the world’s largest once construction is completed on a new
terminal in 2013. It is ultra modern with upscale shopping and all the familiar
restaurants plus some unique dinning options.
I had a 7 hr. layover to just hang out exploring the transit area and made the best of the free Wi-Fi access to catch up on emails. The 0320 departure for Male, Maldives was only a 4 ½ hr. flight. We were scheduled to arrive at 0800 local time. This gave me the opportunity to get some aerial shots of the atolls as we descended towards Hulule International Airport. I had met Eric Chang before we boarded the flight into the Maldives. Eric is the force behind Wetpixel.com an online site dedicated to underwater photographers and videographers. Eric was to be part of the dive group aboard the M/V Orion, our live-aboard for the week.
Aug 19 Day Three
We collected our bags and checked thru customs then exited the arrivals hall; outside we were met by Alex Bryant, the owner of the Orion. We also hooked up with another friend, Doug Seifert, whom we had both dived with before on previous trips. Doug had just finished a two-week trip aboard the Orion diving the same itinerary we were about to do. He had glowing reports of his dives up at Hanifaru Bay with the feeding Mantas. It sounded like we were in for great trip. Once our cabins were ready onboard the Orion we unpacked and began to set up our camera gear. There were still some passengers from the previous trip that were waiting to be transferred back to the airport for their flights home. Those divers soon boarded the dhoni for their ride back to the airport. We said good-bye to Doug and his girlfriend, and then just relaxed. The rest of our dive group were to be picked up in Male by the dhoni once it had deposited the other passengers at the airport. Once everyone arrived at the Orion and boat briefing was done, introductions were made, and everyone assigned to their rooms. Lunch was served shortly afterwards and everyone settled in. Some explored the boat; others assembled their cameras, and some just napped. After diner the Orion began its transit thru North Male Atoll to Baa Atoll where we would start off with diving at Hanifaru Bay. A few of us gathered up on the spa deck for drinks and conversation as we got to know each other. Afterward everyone turned in for the night. The Orion made it to the anchorage at Baa atoll around 11 pm. The water was flat calm so I’m sure all slept well and dreamed about the many Mantas and Whale Sharks we hope to see in the morning.
Aug 20 Day Four
We made our first dive at Daravandhoo Tila a small pinnacle near Hanifaru Bay. We stopped by Hanifaru to see if the Mantas were in the bay feeding, but they weren’t so we opted for the tila dive. It was just a so-so dive for the Maldives plenty of tropical fish, but no big animals.
The 2nd dive of the day was at Hanifaru Bay and this now famous site did not disappoint. There were groups of 6 to 12 mantas feeding in a line and doing barrel rolls as they scooped up the plankton. The topper was there small whale sharks mixed in with the mantas taking advantage of the concentration of plankton. It was the type of diver where so much is happening that you don’t know which way to point your camera. It was a spectacular dive! The late lunch conversations were very animated to say the least.
Thee 3rd dive of the day was at 4:30 a bit later than usual since we had spent so much time diving with the big animals at Hanifaru. We went to nearby reef called Farigoma Tila. It was another so-so dive plus the light levels dropped significantly during the dive. It was practically a twilight dive. We did see a couple of large Marble Rays but that was about it.
Aug 21 Day Five
First dive was at Dhonfaru Tila another typical Maldivian pinnacle dive with lots of tropical fish, sloping reef structure and undercuts. There were large schools of Fusiliers and Silversides, which were occasionally harassed by the marauding Jacks.
On the 2nd dive we checked out Hanifaru Bay to see if the Mantas were in feeding, which they weren’t so we opted for a dive at Dhonfaru Faro a wall dive near the resort of the same name. There was a friendly turtle and many macro subjects.
We checked Hanifaru again before and after our third dive at Daravandhoo Tila, but unfortunately they were not in the bay feeding either time. We dove the tila in the opposite direction this time had found a couple of beautiful flat worms, a free swimming eel, and a small Leaf Fish on a sand patch. It was a nice dive.
Aug 22 Day Six
Our last dive at Baa Atoll was at Nelivaru Tila near the Soneva Fushi Resort. It is know as a Manta cleaning site and it did not disappoint. Several mantas would cruise in then hover over a reef outcrop at 80 ft while small wrasses rose off the reef to clean parasites off the animals. It was a really cool dive. After breakfast the Orion began the transit to Rasdu Atoll where we hope to get in two dives this afternoon and a dawn dive tomorrow morning to see Hammerhead Sharks.
After a 5 hr. transit we arrived at Reshoot Atoll where we did an afternoon dive at a site called Reshoot Madivaru. The reef drops off steeply into the blue. Big tuna, and Gray reef Sharks cruised out in the blue while small White Tip Reef sharks circled over the reef top. There is a sand bowl in the middle of the reef where thousands of Garden Eels wave in the current as they feed on small animals drifting by.
We did a second dive at Reshoot Madivaru taking in the big tunas and fish schools riding the current over the edge of the reef. We saw several groups of Spotted Eagle Rays both over the san bowl and out in the blue.
Aug 23 Day Seven
We were up at 0530 for a Hammerhead dive in the blue off Reshoot Madivaru. I had done this dive several times over the years and have yet to see the hammers up close enough to get some video. Unfortunately that was the case on this dive also.
The Orion then fired up for the 2-½ hr. transit over to North Ari Atoll. Once anchored off Maaya Fushi Resort e geared up for a late morning dive on Hausa Thila. There were tons of schooling snappers, mackerel, and Big Eyes. Some of us “hooked” into the reef lip as the current washed over us we took in the scene as Gray Reef Sharks and White Tip Reef Sharks circled just yards away from the reef. Under the table corals juvenile white tips huddled together and rested from the current. There was lots to see at this spot.
We made a night dive at Maaya Thila where there were several turtles sleeping in the undercuts of the reef and lots of Morey Eels were out free swimming as they hunted for prey. The White Tip Reef Sharks were also out and actively hunting for sleeping fish.
Aug 24 Day Eight
We returned to Maaya Thila for a day dive. Some saw a Mobula Ray cruising over the top of the thila. Other divers were entertained by a small green turtle foraging on algae at the top of the reef in the shallows. There were plenty of eels sticking their heads out of their crevices and a marble ray resting under a coral outcropping.
Next dive was at Bethel Ken Thila a typical thila dive. We first went out onto the sand flat at 100 ft. looking for sharks and tuna, then back up to the reef face checking out the undercuts. The current was running at the lip on the thila so we hooked into the reef as we looked for cruising fish.
The 3rd dive of the day was a return to Hausa Thila. We took a group photo with a birthday banner for Susie, one of the divers. Then we scoured the reef looking for white tip reef sharks hiding under the table corals and small animals on the top of the reef. I opted to pass on the night dive at Maaya Thila tonight.
The diver retuned with good reports on the action during the night dive. Lots of eels and white tip reef sharks hunting and even a ray getting in on the action. We celebrated a passenger’s birthday tonight complete with a cake and party swag. During dinner the Orion began the 3 hr. transit back to N. Male Atoll where we will be doing the last two dives of the trip.
Aug 25 Day Nine
We started the dive day at Lankan Manta Pt., which is a cleaning station for Manta Rays. Several animals came into the station and hovered over a huge coral mound while small wrasses swam out to clean dead skin and parasites off the Mantas. It was a mesmerizing scene and all too quickly the dive time was up and we had to return to the surface. What a way to start the day!
Our last dive of the trip was at Banana Reef. I am very familiar with this site having dived here at least a couple dozen times over the last 25 yrs. There is always a school of Blue Stripped Snappers here as well as turtles and eels. It was a great way to end the trip.
July 22-26, 2010
Islan Holbox Whale Shark Expedition
July 22: Day One The
transit:
Our early morning flight from San Diego thru Phoenix to Cancun was fairly smooth even though there were short flight delays. It just isn't as much fun flying on the American carriers these days. Unfortunately the earliest we could arrive into Cancun was 3:30 in the afternoon so those in our group from the East Coast who had gotten there in the late morning had to wait for us. As it turned out our van driver was late picking us up anyway. Hey, it Mexico! We drove thru the countryside to the village of Chiquila where we hopped onto a panga that would ferry us across the lagoon to Isla Holbox. Upon arriving on the island we were picked up by three golf cart taxis and taken to our hotels. The group met for dinner at the 2nd floor Italian restaurant overlooking the central plaza. The meal was delicious and everyone was excited about the whale shark viewing the next morning. After dinner we all headed for our rooms and settled in for the night.
July 23: Day Two Whale Sharks!
We met our boat crew early this morning and waited for fresh hot empanadas to arrive before we cast off the lines and headed for the Whale Shark viewing area. It was a longer ride than in past seasons. We headed much further east until we were only a few miles off Isla Contoy. We noticed some pangas from Isla Mujeres were working the same area.
The ocean was a little bumpy today with a 3 ft. wind chop. Several in the group were a little queasy. We spotted our first Whale Shark around 9:30. The first two snorkelers got ready and when Captain Duque gave the word to go they hit the water and swam toward the approaching shark. The swimmers were only able to keep up with the shark for about 8 minutes before they returned to our boat and the next two readied themselves. This routine went on throughout the morning until we had all had our fill of viewing the sharks. In all we had snorkeled with 8 different sharks, by the time we called it quits everyone was tuckered out. The captain headed back towards Cabo Catoche were we stopped to catch a coupe of snappers for some fresh ceviche. Man that was delicious! Afterwards we re-anchored the boat near a shallow reef for some relaxing fish watching. On the way back to the pier we slowed to view flocks of Brown Pelicans and Flamingos near the shore. All in all it was wonderful day. Everyone headed back to their rooms to shower and take a siesta. We met for dinner at a new restaurant I hadn't been to before called Casa de Juan Parilla. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the diner offerings, the good drinks and the attentive wait staff. This is one that I will return to on next year's trip.
July 24 Day Three More Whale Sharks
The boat departed early today and we sped out to find the Whale Sharks.
On the way we stopped to spy on a couple of large Green Sea Turtles mating on the surface. Unfortunately the couple split once we got close.
We found the Whale Sharks much closer to Holbox this morning. We had several of the sharks to ourselves before the rest of the fleet showed up!
It was a banner day. Nice calm seas, lots of sharks, and good visibility. Once again we were exhausted by the time we left. The group had dinner at the Faro Viejo Hotel restaurant right on the beach tonight. There was some thunder in the distance as squalls passed near the island.
July 25 Day Four Last chance at the Whale Sharks
One in the group opted to stay onshore when she noticed storm clouds to the southeast of the island. The rest of the intrepid snorkelers went for it!
We stopped near one of the lagoon channels to wait for the weather to pass us by. While there we cruised thru the channel to view some of the bird life in the mangroves. It was very interesting with Great Blue Herons, Egrits, Brown Pelicans, Frigate Birds, and Spoonbills working the sand banks. Once the weather cleared we headed out to sea. It was a bumpy ride once again and we had a hard time spotting the Whale Sharks in the choppy seas. We finally got a radio call telling us there were sharks up ahead about 20 minutes away. We finally found the sharks around 11:30. This is pretty late but there were lots of animals and not a lot of boats so we had a good time swimming with the sharks. Most of the other boats had to leave while we were still able to work with the sharks. We were almost the last boat to leave for home today. We said out good-byes to the crew and thanked them for their hard work. We all met at one of my favorite island resturants, Los Pelicanos. It is run by a gracious lady from Argentina and her Mexican husband. They have some great steaks here and strong drinks! Rod Sidney, the Minister of Tourism for Isla Holbox and my contact on the island and his family joined us.Everyone had a fun time.
July 26 Day Five Heading home
Half of the group was picked up in the morning with the rest taking a later van to the airport in Cancun. The flight home was one easy hop thru Houston then San Diego. Those going back to New Jersey and Florida had even easier flights. Another fun Whale Shark expedition in the books!
Mar 1-14, 2010
The Southern Atolls
Feb 27-Mar1: The transit:
The regional jet flight from San Diego To San Francisco to connect with my Singapore Airlines flight into Singapore was uneventful. I hooked up with Chris Huss, a professional photographer from Seattle, who had been in the Maldives with me back in 1994. That was a memorable trip on the old Koi Mala.
It is a long flight across the Pacific using the great polar route with a short stop in Hong Kong. This flight sometimes messes with your mind because you are leaving around midnight from the west coast of the US and getting into Singapore two calendar days later. The Changi International Airport in Singapore has been rated the top airport in the world several times and is actually a pleasure to wander around in. There are lots of well kept shops with the latest goods from around the world, good restaurants and bars and even sports two hotels, a rooftop pool, a gym and couple of places to get a much needed massage to work out those knots from that long flight. We arrived into Male International on the airport island of Hululi and were met by the owner of the Orion, Alex Bryant. We quickly moved to the waiting dhoni and were transported to the Orion at anchor in the lagoon. After a quick boat orientation we were shown to our rooms and bedded down for the night, We would start diving early the next day as we make our way down to the southern end of the Maldivian atolls. This is an area that I have wanted to see for years and now there are vessels with the range to get us there. I’m anxious to see what the diving is like. I’ve heard that there are a lot more sharks to be seen at these southern dive sites. That would suit me just fine!
Mar 2 Day One
Banana Reef was the checkout dive to start the trip. Only four of the ten passengers aboard made this first dive. The rest of the passengers opted to sleep in. There was a good current running this morning, which was good for viewing some of the pelagics. There were two turtles on the reef. Unfortunately one of them was found dead with fishing line wrapped around it and one of the coral heads so it looked as though the animal had drowned. The Orion upped anchor and began the transit over to Ari Atoll where we would make an afternoon dive at Bathtila.
There was a fair current on the finger reef and a few Grey Reef Sharks cruising in the blue and White Tip reef Sharks resting in the sand. I did see the largest Napoleon Wrasse I have ever seen in the Maldives. The fish might have tipped the scales at around 200 lbs.
Mar 3 Day Two
We continued motoring south thru Air Atoll diving along the way. One of my favorite dives was at Donkalo where we saw up to 20 mantas as they came into the cleaning stations to be serviced by several species of cleaner fishes. It was fascinating to see how the mantas seamed to hover over certain coral outcroppings as they were cleaned.
The last dive of the day was at Rah Digga Tila. We searched for sharks at the bottom of the tila but there were none today. As I worked my way up the reef I did spot a school of Sergeant Barracuda as they paraded back and forth then would morph into a circle. On top of the tila was a beautiful field of huge table corals.
Mar 4 Day Three
We were up at 0600 to try and beat some of the other boats
to Rangali Manta Pt.
Unfortunately there was a battery problem with the dive dhoni so we didn’t get
to the site until later than planned and there were already four boats
jockeying for position. The site is a long reef abutting the channel. We
sighted two Leaf fish a couple of small Mobula Rays cruising the reef break.
Then we came upon a Manta at one of the cleaning stations. I used my reef hook
to maintain my position while freeing my hands to operate my video camera. We
had the Manta to ourselves for about five minutes before two other dive groups
bullied here way onto the viewing area. Time to leave. During the safety stop
we spotted a group of 5 mobulas swimming just under the surface in a diamond
formation-really cool!
Mar 5, 2010 Day 5
Miyaru Kandahar
is a channel dive with a couple of tiles in the middle at 70 ft. Te visibility
was spectacular this morning. It had to be 150 ft and the surface was flat
calm. No large pelagics this morning, but a beautiful
dive anyway.
The southern
atolls are all about channel diving. Making 3 deep dives a day in strong
current isn’t for the faint of heart or inexperienced divers. This is where you
can view large pelagics such as sharks, mobulas, and tuna cruising in the current.
It wasn’t
until the Orion transited up to South Male Atoll when we once again were able
to dive on Giris (pinnacles that came within 5 meters of the surface). Of
course this is where divers see the smaller animals like Frogfish, Mantis
Shrimps, and Leaf Fish.
After this, my 19th trip to the country, the Maldives still remains one of my favorite overall dive destinations.